
Rick,
I have completed the install of the 259 and carried out some testing and adjustment. i am very happy with the reuslts, the surging is virtually non existant, i'm sure i can tweek that out completely but i might just leave it, it's not causing me a problem.
Could i just ask a little question with regard to the roll on and pick up of the bike in 3rd and 4th gear. Can the pots be adjusted to make the throttle more responsive, that is, when i roll the throttle on there is no "catch up" of the engine ? If so, in which direction do i adjust the pots, up or down(voltage) ?
Thanks again, i am very pleased anyway, just like to tune up a little.
By the way, don't know if this should be factored in, i have BRISK spark plugs, wiht no other modifications. ( R1150RT 02)
Thanks again for your help,
Simon Ward
Mark.
My bike seems to be running great still. I have about 1500 miles on the R259. I did try to richen things up on the red and yellow pots as per Ken Krumm recomandations,but found I lost about 5 mpg. So I reset those pots back 1 clock setting from where you guys had it. Perhaps the R1150R motor does need that fuel on top?" "Right now gas mileage is back to about 39-40 and NO SURGING!"
I attended this years Bike Week and while at the BMW of Daytona Dealer, met with these guys. After talking with them and seeing what the Techlusion R259 Controller did for the 1150 they had there, I decided to test it out on my 1998 R1200C.
If your 1200 is like mine, it is not hard to understand why. The bike has "surged" dramatically since I've owned it (2 years). I mean between 20 mph and 50 mph, holding the throttle steady, the bike would feel like it ran into wind-gusts. It made riding at lower speeds uncomfortable and it was just plain annoying. I had these guys put the Controller on my bike (@ 5 minutes), took the bike out for an extended test (150 miles) and came back amazed. 100% improvement - felt virtually no surging. More control, more response. It is the best money I've spent on the bike. Additionally, my bike had stock pipes when I did this. Later that week, I put on a Z-technic set of new mufflers and the Controller, with another 5 minute adjustment, worked great. During my ride home from the Rally (@ 500 miles to North Ga.) I even got improved gas mileage ( 48-50 mpg up from 42-45 pre-controller. Give these guys a call if you are interested
Regards, Mark Delahunty
Thank you Mark.
Also, the 259 is working flawlessly. This is my second BMW bike with a Techlusion fitted. Last week, I had to defeat the box to make sure it was not causing a mysterious engine problem. For 25 miles it was turned off and that old surge came back. I'd never own an oilhead without one. Great product. Tim
Rick,
I have completed the install of the 259 and carried out some testing and adjustment. i am very happy with the reuslts, the surging is virtually non existant, i'm sure i can tweek that out completely but i might just leave it, it's not causing me a problem.
Could i just ask a little question with regard to the roll on and pick up of the bike in 3rd and 4th gear. Can the pots be adjusted to make the throttle more responsive, that is, when i roll the throttle on there is no "catch up" of the engine ? If so, in which direction do i adjust the pots, up or down(voltage) ?
Thanks again, i am very pleased anyway, just like to tune up a little. By the way, don't know if this should be factored in, i have BRISK spark plugs, wiht no other modifications. ( R1150RT 02)
Thanks again for your help,
Simon Ward
-------Original Message-------
Our R259 product will solve your problems. We have supplied BMW UK with some inventory, but don't know how they plan to distribute. You can contact our UK importer, TTS Performance @ 011-44(0) 1327 858212 as he has stock and could help you. We would refund you if the product doesn't cure the surge.
Thank you,
Rick
Thanks for helping me spend my money today.
The bike is running absolutely brilliant, the 'can' sounds awesome and all in alii am very pleased.
I will certainly recommend you to others and in fact have already done $0 on the BMW owners club website.
Once again thanks.
Regards Jim/ Ian
The rear tire, on the other hand, almost always shows the greatest wear right in the middle, since the main forces on the rear tire ar propulsive, and the tire is always slipping a tiny bit as it accelerates the bike. It is rare to have a lot of wear on the sides of the rear tire, unless you ride on twisty roads exclusively. Seen from in back, the tire will have a wide flat spot in the middle, with a sharp radius up to the sides. The minimum allowable wear as shown by the tread wear indicator, "TWI" on the side of your tire, is not a safe limit in our opinion. According to the factory, 2mm is a safe minimum, and 3 mm is the minimum for doing a track day or for intense sport riding.
The actual depth of the tread or tread wear is only part of the equation. The other part is the profile of the tire. If the tire is the same shape it was when new, only with less tread everywhere, then it can be ridden with handling characteristics similar to what it had when new. But if the tire is worn only on the sides in front, and only in the middle in back, then the profiles will not provide good handling, and the tires should be replaced even if the tread wear indicator still shows that it is OK.
Tire pressure has a huge effect on tire wear. Too little, and the tire overheats and wears much faster than normal, as well as wearing in unusual patterns. Too much, and the contact patch is reduced, leading to premature wear in the center of the rear tire. Average tire pressures are in the range of 36psi front and 38-42 psi rear, but there are many circumstances when a different pressure may work better. At the track, we usually run about 30 and 30, front and rear, for example, and in offroad situations, we may run as low as 20 psi. The basic settings in your owner's book should get you in the right range for normal street riding.
Any time you are in doubt about your tires, you should feel free to come in to the shop and let one of us inspect and critique your tires. We'll show you the wear patterns and let you decide how soon you want to replace them, and also discuss what tires might be best for you. This is usually a service function, but I'll be happy to help you with this if you take the time to track me down. - Kari Prager
Battery Chargers?
It is a good idea to use a battery charger occasionally, especially with LT's & RT's with radio-stereo systems. Even if you ride your bike often, you will have longer battery life and avoid the chance of being stranded with a low battery. The right method is to use either a battery charger for a limited time (12 hours or so) or use a "battery tender", which is regulated and cannot overcharge the battery, and can be left on indefinitely. Remember that no matter how often you ride, charging your battery will insure long life. And if you ride your LT infrequently, and for short rides, it is absolutely essential that you get a battery tender and use it to keep your battery in a fully charged state, as there is more drain on the battery from radio & alarm that with other bikes.
ABS lights that do not go out
Low battery voltage can cause ABS warning lights to stay on. The first evidence you may have of low battery voltage is an ABS system that will not self-check properly. The ABS computer will not boot up properly if the battery voltage is a little low. If your ABS lights are reluctant to go out, and you need to try several times, then it is time to charge your battery.
Shifting into first gear from a stop?
If you have difficulty shifting into first gear... This note is for new BMW owners. When you have been waiting at a stop with the clutch pulled in, you have disconnected the gearbox from the engine and the gearset is no longer spinning. When you attempt to shift into gear, you may find it difficult to engage first because the engagement dogs are not lining up with the corresponding slots on the gear. Giving the gearset a little spin, either by returning to neutral, letting out the clutch, and then shifting quickly into first, or by letting the clutch out very gradually while pressing down on the gear lever, till the gearset moves a little, will allow you to select your gear easily. This is a characteristic of BMW's single plate dry clutch design, and not a sign of a defective transmission.
Valve stem caps
Valve stem caps are more important than you think. Frequently we see motorcycles come in for service with missing valve stem caps. This is potentially dangerous if you are a fast rider, as at very high speeds you can lose air from the valve stem valve unless you have the valve stem cap in place. You do NOT want to experience a deflation at triple digit speeds because you neglected to replace a missing valve stem cap. (We have seen it happen, this is no laughing matter...)
Bike washing
Cleaning your bike... Everyone with a new bike wants to take good care of it, and properly so. This caution is about the use of pressure washers and water jets from garden hoses. It is tempting to put that nozzle on 'jet" and blast off any oil or dirt, but you may introduce water into the final drive through the breather, into swingarm bearings or wheel bearings or into electrical connectors. High pressure water, with or without detergent, is not a good agency for cleaning your bike. Use a gentle setting for rinsing, and a soft rag with detergent to remove areas of dirt & oil. Good cleaning agents do not require a jet blast to clean the bike with little effort.
Long life for your clutch
Checking clutch adjustment (cable operated clutches) is a task that every owner can do. This adjustment is easy and often overlooked by owners. Although the clutch is adjusted properly at every service, in heavy traffic and city driving the adjustment may need to be done more frequently. The essence of the adjustment is to have sufficient free play at the lever, so that you know the clutch is fully engaged and not slipping. You should be able to move the lever freely 1/4 to 3/8" or so at the end before feeling any engagement. If you have no freeplay, you are probably slipping your clutch, which will drastically shorten its life. Add freeplay per your owner's book, or come in to the Service Department and ask to have this important adjustment explained to you.
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